Quick Release Mechanism for Logitech Wheels

While Fanatec & Thrustmaster keep pushing each other to new innovations and have introduced interchangeable wheel rims for their top products, Logitech users still have to deal with their standard equipment.

But thankfully, there’s the sim racing community that pushes further than Logitech – The newest example is simulaje’s quick release mechanism for the Logitech G25 & G27 wheels.

The system allows Logitech owners to use all kinds of aftermarket wheels on their G25/G27 base. Below are some very neat looking examples to inspire you, made by Rino Demeulemeester.

The quick release system sells for 90€ + shipping, consisting of two parts – one that is being put on the wheel and one that is put on the rim. Pieces for additional wheels sell for 55€

You can find an installation video below, more info can be found on the simulaje’s website.

GTOmegaRacing.com

  • http://derekspearedesigns.com/ Derek Speare

    For those watching from home, those are DSD Mini Plates on the Momo Mod27 D and the OMP wheels.

    • rino demeulemeester

      Build to last Derek. :)
      I’ll be back soon for a buttonbox!

  • Arturo V.

    So basically the cost would be $145 Euros if I wanted to use the quick release with another wheel. Would any standard real racing MOMO wheel fit? would a Fanatec wheel fit and work with all their button and lights functionalities? Great work btw!

    • rino demeulemeester

      No Arturo. For one wheel you need the 90€ piece. That’s it!
      That gives you the piece for the wheel and the piece for the G series wheel!
      But any wheel after that you’ll need the 55€ piece!
      With the pinconector inside you can still use the the button functions.
      For that, I can only recomend Derek Speare!

      • Arturo V.

        Thanks Rino. What is that MOMO wheel on the picture of the article? those buttons would work just the same as the G27 buttons? And just to be 100% sure… cost would be 90 Euros for the quick release of the original G27 wheel, and 55 Euros for the quick release mechanism for the other wheel. Plus the cost of the other wheel. Right? Let’s say $250 for the MOMO wheel (example) plus $190 USD (making a conversion of 1 E=1.3 USD) for the quick release mechanisms = $440 USD total.

      • Arturo V.

        I just saw the Derek Speare reply. Nice work also. Congratulations to both of you.

      • rino demeulemeester

        I paid arround 460USD.
        That includes everything.Shipping / Momo model 29 / Quick release / and miniplates (buttons).
        I can honestlu say the momo is an improvement over the stock G series wheel!

      • http://www.facebook.com/pablo.ferro.526 Pablo Ferro

        how about FFB? the wheel is heavier than the one with G27? how does that affects FFB? Thanks!

      • rino demeulemeester

        See my post about FFB.

  • Matt Orr

    Amazing to see how far people have taken the G25/G27.

    Kinda shocking, honestly… considering what it is. For the price of this and one of those steering wheels well, you are getting to the point of just getting a better wheel to start with.

    • http://www.facebook.com/mazda.mps.1 Mazda Mps

      What do think the negative points are of the G25?

      I’ve had mine for donkeys years and still rate it above most Fanatec wheels although I haven’t tried the new CSW.

      The belt driven wheels I’ve tried like the GT3 RS just don’t give that delicate feedback like the G25 does.

      Interested to hear your thoughts.

      • http://twitter.com/Sultan_Of_Slide Clive Lomax

        I had my G25 donkeys years as well, had some savings and decided to upgrade to the CSW. I know its all about personal preferences but for me its night and day.
        I had never tried a belt driven wheel before but imagined it must be better, the slop in the middle of the G25 was really starting to annoy me.
        The belt drive means better precision in cornering for me, as soon as I turn the wheel, the car reacts, allowing me to hit more apexes.
        With the G25 it was more hit and miss.
        Now my G25 was about 6 years old, owned it from new, age might have had something to do with it.
        I will never go back to gear driven wheels
        Thats my experience.

      • http://www.facebook.com/steve30x Steve Farrell

        I had A g25 for seven years and never had that dead zone or sloppy centre.

      • http://twitter.com/Sultan_Of_Slide Clive Lomax

        Perhaps sloppy centre is not correct, its the way the gears mesh, once in the turn its fine, its the initial movement of the wheel, a millisecond before the gears make contact and the car reacts, it just throws me off.

      • GamerMuscle

        The slack between the gears is probably less than half a mm if I really softly push on the wheel left and right without it actually rotating then you can feel that , but its not something you could notice when driving. Even If it was its cetanly far less of an issue than having 3-10x the dampening that’s found in belt driven wheels.

        I don’t understand how you can miss an apexe with the G25 , the amount of force to initait velocity in the wheel and make the car turn is less in a G25 than any belt wheel I know of , so factually as a device the G25 is more sensitive on the physical side , if anything the risk would be for a user to over turn the wheel.

        The G25 suffers in force strength , rotation speed and it feels somewhat harsh and metallic in terms of “feel” .

        But at the same time its giving a far more direct feel of the FFB instructions sent from the game and thus a more clear if harsh image of the simulated FFB interms of FFB that the driver would respond to.

        Belt driven wheels I think are more suited to drivers that are aggressive with the wheel and don’t “drive with finger tips”

        If you are particualry aggressive with a wheel you could probably run with less lock in game reducing the need to be as acuret with the wheel input and compensate for the inherent dampaning of a belt driven wheel. However This will always be slower and less precise than somone that drives with finger tips using a wheel with less friction.

        Of course a leobodner style wheel offers the best of both worlds in that you get the force and power fond in a real car but crucially with finger tip slack when needed ( when balancing the car on its path of least resistance)

        To be clear when driving with finger tips that doesn’t mean the wheel wont still rip your fingers off its just having the ability to make tiny micro corrections in a flash.

      • Den Burnout

        Thanks for the input Clive. I appreciate it.

      • Anonymous

        you are spot on dude, read my post above.
        its not subjective opinion either, its an objective fact.
        we need to spread the truth!

        for the people that say belt driven is more precise – they are clearly not driving anywhere near the limits of the game, or not capable of quick laptimes.

        for us quicksimracers………we need the logitechs freer wheel.
        infact – if you watch a video of any Leo Bodnar creation, you will see how quickly and freely the wheel turns, it is CRUCIAL.

      • http://www.facebook.com/mazda.mps.1 Mazda Mps

        I agree totally. If my G25 ever breaks I think I will try and remanufacture it rather than go to belt drive.

      • Matt Orr

        Nothing wrong with it, but people have spent far more money on the wheel itself than just getting something better. Unless you are going to rate a G25 above some of the very high end brands…

        Plus, I bet the FFB feels terrible when you start adding actual wheel rims, as I doubt the motors have enough torque to still drive the wheel hard. Case and point, CSW and T500 wheels. The CSW feels waaaay different depending on which rim you use, despite being the same wheel base.

      • rino demeulemeester

        About the FFB, yes and no… See my post about that.

    • rino demeulemeester

      it’s a personal choice. i’ve seen far to many bad things emerge from Fanatec. PR wise and product wise. Maybe that’s all sorted now, but i’ve been nothing short but 110% satisfied with the G27.
      The Logitech has got the reputation for beeing a relieable wheel. So I did the investment. Building my 3 wheels is part of my hobby as simracing.

      And nothing beats the feel of a real racing wheel.

      • http://www.facebook.com/steve30x Steve Farrell

        I have experience with the Fanatec GT3RS V2 and the CSR Elite pedals. My pedals are working perfectly since I got them about eight months ago and I love them , but I had to get my wheel replaced three times so in the end I sold the last replacement wheel and I am saving for a T500R (Because I cant get a G27 delivered to Ireland)

    • Anonymous

      Theres a reason why majority of people in FSR, and me, still use G25/G27. Because it is actually better a wheel for simracing. Fact. I bought a T500 and return it immediately, because of the inherent resistance a belt driven wheel has.

      they are totally useless for driving at the limit of the game and using quick reactions to adjust, because the wheel turns too slow.
      Thats why we still use the logitechs.

      i cannot comment on the CSW base but both the GT3RS i tried and the T500 were not as quick or precise as the G25.
      Hence why the top simracers like me continue to use our logitechs, and will do until no more are in existence.

      i am so happy this guy has made this product public and ‘launched’ it officially.
      i was going to buy a 2nd g25/g27 and fix 2 different wheels to them. Now i can do this! AMAZING.

      • Matt Orr

        Pretty sure Huttu uses a CSW. Can’t be that bad.

        There is no “fact” in your post. Gear v Belt is pure preference and nothing more. Both have pros and cons.

      • Anonymous

        ……no……the 2 belt driven wheels i tried have more standing resistance. you cannot physically turn them quicker, against the motor, than a g25. That IS a fact.

        the t500 has much stronger ffb but its not important. Its the quality of the ffb and when it uses it thats important. Dont take my word for it – go ask Niels.

        you will also notice if you watch any Leo Bodnar/servo assisted wheel, how free it is and easy to turn when theres no ffb, or when countering ffb. This is so important.

        i have not tried the CSW, so cannot comment – maybe it is great.

        As for Huttu using CSW – im not sure if he does – i saw a promo video of him using it once, posted on fanatec website. Maybe CSW is a good wheel, i dont know.

      • http://www.facebook.com/marcel.penzke Marcel Penzkofer

        Driving in FSR doesn’t make you a simracer. To be honest, the cars they use in FSR have such an unrealistic amount of downforce, mid corner grip and suspension I would rather call it gaming than simracing. And for gaming you need a fast controller, not a realistic one. I’ve learned to know people driving rFactor with Gamepads and Joysticks and they beat the hell out of some former FSR-drivers. Because mods like these are much easier to drive with a fast controller and no steering wheel in the world beats a (joy)stick in terms of speed.

        The T500 is pretty close to any GT-racer-wheel and the CSW Formula rim is the closest thing you can get to drive a real formula or prototype car on your computer (since newer GT cars have the same wheel shape like the GT3 McLaren these are pretty cool to drive with it too). I’ve been playing with Logitech wheels since the release of the DFP (the one which the G25 was based on – very old, you know). Since half a year I got a CSW now and I never want to go back to these Logitech toys…

        But I am no fan boy either. I used to have a G27 and a Fanatec GT2 at the same time for more than 12 months and I hated the GT2, hated its FFB, hated its slowness, hated its realitbility and its materials. But you can’t compare the other Fanatec wheels to the CSW.

        What I always wonder about these disucssions is: A real simracer does simracing because he wants to get the maximum realism out of his rig. That means you get the most realistic hardware you can afford to pay. But if you choose a wheel which is much worse (G27) only for the reason the results are better with it, how are you a simracer then? I don’t care how fast I am with which wheel, I want to get the maximum realism I can pay for with my hard earned money. Surely I could be quicker with a modified G25/G27 but does it feel better? No…

      • Anonymous

        1. your definition of a simracer therefore excludes a lot of people who do competitive simracing, its absurd.
        2. some of the worlds best compete or have competed in FSR
        3. that is your opinion about FSR mod – i would argue it is a poor opinion. The FSR mod does its best to correct some of the inherent flaws of the gmotor engine. Making it more grippy actually makes it more realistic, in rfactors case.
        4. I have not driven the CSW so cannot comment. i Have driven the T500 and GT3 RS and both wheels were not as good as G25 due to the standing resistance. You do not get this kind of slack or resistance in real life, where the forces pushing the wheel back to a neutral equilibrium are much stronger and quicker. See Leo Bodnar wheel, and compare the way it moves to G25/G27, and then to the T500.
        5. ‘a real simracer does simracing to get maximum realism’ ……………..lol……..some simracers want max realism, sure, some will want to …..do sim racing.
        You’re also assuming that these wheels are more realistic and true to real life. I am telling you this is not the case.
        6. if you want to be slower with your wheel, fine. again i cannot comment, have not used a CSW.

    • Den Burnout

      There aren’t many better wheels though unless one pays ECCI prices. Fanatec has a questionable reliability history so the only choice left is the T500. Where I live at least (Canada) both the Fanatec choices and Thrustmaster T500 are double the price of a G-27.

      • Matt Orr

        Yet for the price of a G25/G27 + QR system (or adapter) + wheel + button plate, you can easily end up at the prices you would find a T500 for.

      • Den Burnout

        Agreed. yes, in this case. Does anyone make an adapter to put a real wheel on the T500 yet?

      • http://twitter.com/alexands alexands

        Yes. Derek Speers and Sam Maxwell both make either adapters or wheels and adapters.

      • rino demeulemeester

        And I believe Juan is developing a quick release for the T500 aswell! Contact him for further information at Simulaje

      • Mario Strada

        I think these mods are aimed at existing owners that may have had their G25/27 for several years and the wheel is basically paid for.

      • Anonymous

        youre assuming that the t500 is a better wheel than either of those 2………….there are many people including me, who says its not (ive tried both, i know), and want different rims for g25/g27.

  • rino demeulemeester

    To be clear, I do not manufacture these Quick release systems.
    I only brought them to your attention :) The wheels in the post are mine, that’s it.
    To contact the creator, you can go to the link on the bottom of the article, or just email him at jzfilms@hotmail.com

    • Anonymous

      Rino – i will email him thank you so much for the info.

      Quick question:

      I would like to use the YasGP wheel, and my G25 wheel. (1 for racing, 1 for drifting).

      Is it possible to hotswap between these 2 wheels with the 1 adapter?

      Or am i going to have to buy YasGP and another compatible wheel and throw away my G25 wheel?
      I dont want to spend so much money on a 2nd wheel, because I just want a circular rim for drifting, so need a cheap circle wheel for that!

      If it is the case that I cannot hotswap between YasGP and G25, what off the shelf rims would fit onto the adapter which the YasGP would also fit on to – so I know what to get from the motorsport catalogues.

      many thanks.

      • rino demeulemeester

        Euhmm, Google can’t help on the yasgp wheel. No idea what that is :) What I do know is that you can fit the quick release on the G25. If you want a second wheel with shiftpaddles then it’s getting expensive! Because you need a second G 25 for the shift mecanism. I found a 2nd hand G27 wheel without pedals for 50€. Lucky me :)
        But if you don’t need the shiftpaddles then you can build cheap. My wooden wheel is also second hand (40€) and i’ve made my own adapter. So including the quick release single wheel piece it costs 95€ without shipping.
        To switch between wheel you will the complete set (90€) and the single wheel piece (55€)

  • sargentjack86

    Nice work. I saw your post on NoGrip with these pics. Too expensive for me but looks very professional. :-)

  • http://www.facebook.com/steve30x Steve Farrell

    Thats great if you have a G27 or if you can find someplace that has it in stock. I was going to buy a G27 but I cant find anyplace with them in stock that ships to Ireland.

    • Den Burnout

      Wow. I’m surprised. Is it hard to get other products in Ireland?

      • http://www.facebook.com/steve30x Steve Farrell

        Nope I can get a T500RS no problem but I need to save a bit more for it

  • Nuno Ferreira

    What about the digital display (LCD) where can i order it? It looks very clean but nothing short of great..THANKS

    • rino demeulemeester

      It’s an iPod touch running Mightygate software.
      I use that same software for my iPad. iPod shows rev/shiftlights, and the iPad shows telemetry and tyrewear fuel consomption etc.

  • http://www.facebook.com/ethan.bass.750 Ethan Bass

    Where can we buy the wheels with this quick release?

    • rino demeulemeester

      You can’t buy them fully assembled!
      Look for a known wheel (OMP/Momo/Sparco) , contact Simulaje for the quick release (link at the end of the story) and contact Derek Speare if you want new buttons. And put it all toghether yourself (see video)

      • Anonymous

        Rino,

        Ok – i went to Derek Speare website.
        How would a Derek Speare wheel (with buttons) work with the quick release mechanism? wouldnt the wiring for the buttons mean you can’t swap the wheel quickly?

      • rino demeulemeester

        First of, Derek makes the miniplates (buttons) that you have to mount yourself on a wheel. Contact Derek to see if he supports the wheel you want.
        The wires are no problem at all. You can see on the 4th picture that the wires are well clear from the QR system. So no problem at all!

      • Anonymous

        nice one thank you, ive contacted Derek.
        i will make sure to do a full video review of everything when i have all the pieces!

      • Anonymous

        Rino – I have a couple of other questions about your setup – I am basically trying to copy your setup, but I just want to use 2 rims: the Momo Model 29, and a G27 rim.

        do you post on a forum or something, i was hoping i could PM you with a bunch of questions or send an email or something? if not, please see below!

        basically to get your setup, heres a list of all the parts i think i need:

        1. Momo Wheel model 29 (£157)
        2. Quick release JZ full (90 Euro) = to swap between G27 and Momo

        3. If I want to connect a 3rd wheel, I need additionally the Medium JZ quick release (55 Euro)

        4. For the buttons, Derek Speare mini plate ($56)

        5. How did you connect the paddle shifters off your G27 and attach to the Momo wheel?

      • rino demeulemeester

        Best mail me at rino.demeulemeester@gmail.com
        Copy and paste your questions in the mail. Is your native language english btw?

      • Anonymous

        it is yes :)
        I’ll email you later today. thanks

  • rino demeulemeester

    Ok, about FFB and aftermarket wheels!
    Let me start of by recomending the Formula type wheel I use. The momo model 29. That wheel on my G27 was and still is a revelation!
    It just feels so much better. And i’m not refuring to the alcantara but about the FFB. For some reason I can correct much better then before and catch the car. Under and oversteer is something I feel better with this wheel. It’s aluminium and much lighter than the stock wheel. And also slightly smaller. I changed nothing in my profiler.

    The bigger OMP needed getting some use to. And some minor tweaks in the profiler. But I am just as fast (or slow) with it in a GT car than I used the stock wheel.
    I would recomend not going bigger than 330mm. That is the maximum.
    FFB is allot more gentle with the big wooden wheel. But I kinde like that in a mod like HistoriX. The fun I have with that wheel in a Ferrari 330!

  • manu

    Hi rino would you recommend this for a playstation (gran turismo 5) user? It seems pretty cool but I imagine it would be a headache getting the buttons to work with the playstation, should I choose to use a Momo wheel and the Derek Speare buttons. Have you tried it with a playstation and got it to work?

    • rino demeulemeester

      If a G27 work on the PS3 than this wheel mod will work just the same. The buttons don’t need software or anything like that. They work the same as the buttons on the G27. They come with the same pin connectors. Detache the G27 wheel, connect the DSD buttons and a 3rd party wheel (only main brands such as Momo, Sparco, OMP are supported by Derek)
      Same for the QR system. Just a simple install (watch the install video) and everything works as before.

  • Anonymous

    Hi Rino. Ist the QR System not to heavy for the 350mm Steering Wheel?

    • rino demeulemeester

      I would recommend not to go higher then 330mm!

  • impreza0109

    So you’re telling me, I just need to send him a wheel, and he’ll do the rest (provide me with the parts and I install it myself, I know)?

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